At the crack of dawn

Just by coincidence the night before, while I was cooking, I played the CD of the storyteller Donald Davis: “All about aunt Laura, and the crack of dawn”. I know hearing the crack of dawn was a gift his aunt left him when she died, but we literally woke up with the sound of a big crack!!! That very first morning in Bequia. It was like a hammer, a giant one, right on the head. I jumped up scared to death, Jim ran “butt naked” and in less than 3 seconds he was up in the bow of the boat pushing off this 80 foot long Catamaran that broke loose from one of African's moorings about 500 feet away, drifted and hit us on the bow-pulpit, smashing it so it looked like a pretzel.

I ran after Jim with his bathing suit in my hand, knowing he'll need it, and watched that incident (not quite awake yet) like a surrealistic movie. “What happened? What has just happened?” I kept asking. Next thing I realized was that we had also broken loose off our mooring, but Jim jumped into the cockpit, grabbed the steering wheel, started the engine and got us away from the drifting catamaran. In the meanwhile, the big catamaran; that had the line of our mooring wrapped around one of it propellers and both rudders; couldn't steer. It was spinning around and around and hitting other boats: 2 forty foot charter catamarans and a 42 mono-hull. This “boat eating monster” got his second propeller caught in the mooring of the last catamaran, parting the line and towing it away like a toy.

We follow the boat until he was anchored in the other side of Admiralty Bay. African was out on his boat within 5 minutes, nicely dressed with his big gold chain around his fat neck. “I'm the man!” he seemed to say. He talk to us. “Don't worry, I talk to him, he'll pay, let me get you back on your mooring”. And in less 20 minutes he had all the damaged boats back on his moorings.

Not too long after that, the owner of the catamaran comes over in his dinghy, takes pictures of all the damages, gives his contact information and offers his apologies. “It seemed so easy”, he said, “the boat boy just handed me the line... it seemed so easy, that was stupid of me. My boat was much too big to be on a small mooring. I'll pay for everything”. And for sure, Jim got an estimated from the "fix-it man", the only stainless steel shop on the island; gave the Swiss man his bank account information and in two days he had wire transferred the money . And I wrote this little song:

Old man, nice Swiss gentleman,

sent to England his crew and captain,

thinking “this week-end is just for fun”

took his 80 foot boat to the Windward,

and gave Salty Shores a Crack of dawn.

Jim will be talking about this story forever.

AnechyNotes

Bequia

I think this day by day journal might look like a “chickflic”, especially coming from a “free Cuban bird” like some of my friends already call me.

Well this free bird got beat up by the 18-22 knots winds sailing from St. Lucia to St. Vincent and the Grenadines. So, as usual, I travelled upside down. But that morning our Captain said: “this is going to be a brisk sail”. After a definition class of the word “brisk”, I agreed it was.

Now, I love having Archie on board, he is always cheerful; that gave me my courage back. It took us 8 hours to get to Port Elizabeth in Bequia. I found it colorful and very alive. With about two miles of coastline in the bay there were coffee shops, bars, restaurants, fruits stands and more, that really gives you plenty of things to do and places to explore.

There were at least 75 boats in the bay moored or anchored. As soon as we entered the bay, the boat boy, African, came along side Salty Shores, to rent us one of his moorings. In the beginning Jim didn't want to pick up a mooring, since we only draft 4 feet, we can anchor in shallow water easily. But by coincidence our friends from Nova Scotia, Joanne and Gene were on a mooring just a few boat ahead. “We are looking for Ely Blue” he said to African, who immediately yelled “Gene is on one of my moorings!” Then Jim said: "OK, I'll take one of your moorings".

Well, 15 dollars (US) later we were all set up and Joanne and Gene were coming by to say hello and make a get-together-plan for next morning.

The anchorage was calm and we were very sure it will be a nice sleep night, so we all went to bed right after dinner, about nine o' clock.

AnechyNotes

Standing by the sleeping beauties

Sunset at the Pitons

We couldn't have a better trip to the Pitons, we made it in four hours, it was cloudy, but even though the bright colors were hidden, the two sleeping volcanoes welcome us.

Picking up the mooring was very easy with Jahvin's help, the boat boy, who chased us when we got in to make some business and took us to Sufraire on his boat, where we cleared out the island. He did a nice job driving along the bigger Piton; on his 10 feet long boat with 70 horse power outboard motor. At the meanwhile he was telling stories about the town, the hurricane and the battles between France and England for the island.

The town of Sufraire wasn't too exiting, but we had a nice walk around it, bought four pounds of fresh Mahi-mahi for lunch and sat down at the water front park to wait for our ride back to the boat.

We waited until 3 o' clock to go snorkeling while Archie swam in the beach of the Pitons Resort. Oh, life is good! But boating life is full of emotions. I was wondering why the dinghy kept filling up with water when I found a crack all the way across the fiber glass bottom. That started another tragic-comic episode of our trip. Any way we couldn't do anything until we got to Bequia, the Grenadines.

So that night we took a ride on shore with some people we met in the marina a few day ago and were on a mooring next to us. We took a taxi together to a Resort in the hill called La Ladera, very recommended by the cruising guide: “its spectacular view from the bar-restaurant called Dashin will blow your mind”. And it does. It's like seating on front of a high definition TV. “When you get there” he insisted “You'll say, wow!” And guess what? Wow!

Petit Piton

Gros Piton

AnechyNotes 

Dock sailing in Rodney Bay Marina

March 2^nd. A few circumstances “not controlled by our voluntary” had us stocked on D-8 slip, at Rodney Bay. I'll expose them:

1- get the laundry done

2- fix the toilets

3- fix the salt water pump

4- and the gimble lock on the stove

5- go to the market in Castries and buy fruits and veggies “twice” 

6- paint the cracks on the wood rails of Salty Shores

7- wait for our friend Archie, who is jointing us to sail to Grenada

8- and a weather window, because it has been really windy and stormy the last 3 days.

Today, we got up at six. After clearing out and paying the bill twice, because for days we kept saying: “we are going to go today!” And went to the office close the bills and then Jim calls a few minutes later to ask if there was any problem if we stay one more day; the marina nice officers just answered: “Salty Shores, you can stay all the time you want.” Of course...

But today, we were tired of dock sailing and with Archie here we felt more that committed to do something. Yesterday, when we came back from our second adventure in Castries with the provision (soursops, plantains, pepper, local chives, celery, grape fruits, coconut water, tomatoes and cooked lamb); we checked the passage weather, the winds were calming down, it was still raining, but the voice was out: “we are going to the Pitons”.

So here we are, 10 miles of 15 to the most scenic place in the Caribbean, where the two sleeping volcanoes, one on each end of the bay, almost touch the sky. So emblematic of St. Lucia that it is name to their national beer, very good, by the way.

AnechyNotes

40 nautical miles south

St. Lucia overview

February 22^nd. Salty Shores was ready to sail to St. Lucia, so we started our way at 6:30 in the morning. It was blowing 16-17 knots Northeast and the beautiful main sail and the genoa were showing off between flying fishes and birds.

This passage is known to be very rough right between Martinique and St. Lucia. A few days earlier I was telling our friend Louie from Newport, NC, that I couldn't wait to see him turn yellow and green when he comes to sail with us, maybe not very nice of me. But in fact I'm the one who travels outside down all the time; and the seasickness medicine makes me sleepy, so when I'm not puking, I'm immerse in my dizzy land.

We were expecting a nice Mahi-mahi, but not even a hint of good luck with that this time.

We got to St. Lucia at 11:00 am, actually we did a very good time. Jim called Rodney Bay Marina on the VHF to make a reservation and went straight ahead to the fuel dock to fill up the tank, making sure that it was filtered before. I guess the dirty fuel we had before had him a little traumatized. The fuel boy gave Jim a look of disapproving, until he told him our episode changing filters a few days ago and gave him a tip to keep him happy. “It's not that I got that diesel here, It's that I am a little paranoid about it”. He finally said.

A few minutes later we were docked in a very nice marina, with unlimited water, nice hot showers, good restaurants, free internet... Yey! Good to power up and continue the trip.

After we checked in the marina and customs and immigration, we had lunch at an Italian caffé called Elena's. They have a good pizza chef, with a stone oven and a great repertory of Italian songs that he sings while he is making the dough. He doesn't speak any English, but his pizzas are too good to be truth. That was plenty of stimulation to get brushes, rags and hoses and clean nicely our sailing home.

AnechyNotes

Santa Anne et Marin

February 20^th and 21^st

We left the capital of Martinique at 6 o' clock in the morning, with the intentions of sailing to St. Lucia. But the wind shifted and the ocean was getting weird, so the captain asked and then decided to stop in Ste. Anne, a little and colorful town in the south of the island. We got there by 9:30 am. Then we put the dinghy down, took a swim. This anchorage is very comfortable and the water is clear.

Then we went to town for lunch. We wonder around a little bit, until we found a patisserie and café called L’Épi Soleil. This place had everything! Grill, salads, sandwich, pastries, paninies, fresh fruit juices, café au lait... it's located in the water front and the waitress are very friendly. We ate way too much.

And guess what! Carnival, we couldn't run away from it. So after a Punch Coco nap we went back to town, just in time for the parade. Thankfully this is a small village.

There were a lot of people on the street and we were incredibly hungry again. We did the food rounds until we saw a big French-west Indian guy grilling chicken, ribs and fish. That place was the winner.

Next morning, after our big pastry breakfast, we went to Marin, a big anchorage with hundreds of boats. We went on shore, but once again because of the carnival every business was closed after noon. So we wondered around for a while and came back home to have a nice dinner and a well rested night in the calmest bay, so far. It felt like being on a slip in a marina.

AnechyNotes

Fort de France

Fort de France

February 18^th. It was 3:45 in the morning when the anchor woke us up with a noise that sounded like we were dragging. Luckily, it was just the chain pulling out of the locker when the tide changed and the wind picked up, because the night before we were so tired that we didn't put the snubber on (that I called the snugger). After that incident it was hard to fall back sleep, but for some reason (maybe the rocking bed) when the alarm clock rang at 6:30 we were fast slept.

The early start was to go just 14 miles away, from St. Pierre to Fort de France. We got there at 9:30, anchored, put the snugger on and got ready to go on shore. Jim and I were looking forward to get some French pastries, in the way there we were studding with the dictionary how to ask directions to get to a “pâtisserie, changer l'argent et combien ça coûte?” Come on, this is why I've been studding French! I was very excited about Martinique, but entering the bay was a big shock compare to other islands because this is a big city.

Well, we finally got in the dinghy and went to land, they have a very nice water front with a dock just for dinghies. It wasn't hard to find a place to buy Euros, right in front street a big sight in white and blue advertise the service, and while we waited on line I talked to some people to find a place to eat. They recommended us the “Centre Commerciale” the big mall. A few minutes later we were savoring a delicious “pannini, une tarte au pomme, des cappuccino and a nice ambiance”. The hard thing was walking down the boulevard, because we happened to get there the day the carnival started. There were vendors all over the place selling costumes, people playing drums, buying food and getting ready for the celebration of “carnaval de la pêche”.

Our second goal, was to buy fresh produce in the farmers market. In the way there we stopped at Canal Levassor; where a fisherman was selling his catch. He was wearing a T-shirt of “Che Guevara”with a Cuban flag. I immediately asked him about it, he said a friend brought it from Cuba, and he express on his loco-motion talking his wish to visit it one day. “Do you want to buy some fish?” His boat was full of ballyhoo. Jim said: that's what we use for bait in Beaufort.

I talk to all the vendors and enjoyed the similitude of the fruits of this island and Cuban's. Smells and flavors I haven't tried in more than a year.

We went back to the boat to leave the grocery bags and went back to town to watch the parade and walk in a more quiet place as all the business were closing down.

Sunday 19^th Since most of the business are closed the best we could do was... Carnival! The food kiosks were open and we had the best fruit smoothy, and a creole dish of rice, lentils and “fricasse de mouton” (cheep in souse). Once again I talked to everybody a could with my “petit po française” or frenchglish. When the big parade stared we went to check it out, it was very interesting and for sure pictures talk better than words.

Parade de Fame en bleu

Parade de Transvestitism

Hula-hu girls

The noiy cars

One hour later we were back to Salty Shore, but not even then we could run away from the loud music, it seemed even louder! Well, it was time to go. Two days of carnival was enough.

Anechy Notes

Sailing time

Friday, February 17^th.

This is funny, last Friday I was working out to fit in my party dress. But it feels like we've been gone for a month! The Captain feels the same way, specially after the road trip in Dominica.

We woke up at six and started our journey to a different place, St. Pierre, Martinique, 62 miles away. It was a perfect day for sailing. This time I was the one talking to my brain, instead of my stomach, so I could enjoy having cereal and a decent lunch. I was even able to cooperate with Captain Rumfelt, easing and harding the genoa sheet, coiling them and pulling fishing lines. By the way, our rêve (*) of catching a Mahi-mahi didn't come true. There was a lot of sea grass along getting on the lines and hooks.

We got to Martinique just in time to enjoy the sunset, but we didn't anchored in St. Pierre until eight. My first impression of this town, devastated by a volcano in 1902, was arriving to one of the European towns I've just seen in a movie.

St. Pierre used to be the Capital of Martinique. It was known as the Paris of the Caribbean and was the commercial, cultural and social center of the island, with a population of 30,000 people. After the explosion of Mt. Pelèe, the volcano, called Ascension Day, the 8^th of May in 1902, there were only 2 survivors in the town; Loen Leandre, a cobbles who was in his cellar and the famous Cyparis, imprisoned for murder, in a stone cell. St. Pierre was never rebuilt to be the same, and some of the survivals walls can be seen as part of a new house (*).

Now the Capital is Fort the France, which is our next stop.

Learning how to garden on a sailboat,

AnechyNotes

(*) dream or wish in French

(*) Extract from 2005-2006 Sailors guide by Chris Doyle

Wendie's Oat Bran Bread

Just out of the oven

My friend Wendie from Chapel Hill, N.C. is a great cook and baker, last summer we spent a lot of time together. She taught me how to make bread, one of my ancient dreams. She has a very good diet, specially since she is lactose, gluten and wheat intolerant, all her recipes are based on a good and healthy nutrition that goes in harmony with her body.


One of my favorite recipes of many she has made is her Oat Bran Bread. This bread is as light and delicious as healthy and filling, good for breakfast and travelling, specially by boat. It is very simple and fast to put all the ingredients together and baking it takes less than 15 minutes.

Ingredients:

1 cup oat bran
1 cup whole-grain buckwheat flour
1/2 tsp. salt
3 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. cinnamon
2 eggs
2 Tbs. olive oil
1/4 cup honey
1 cup rice milk


Preparation:


In medium bowl combine first 5 ingredients and set aside. In small bowl combine last 4 ingredients. Add eggs mixture to dry ingredients and mix well. Bake in greased 8" or 9" round or square pan at 400* for 25 minutes.


On my experience, when it stars smelling is almost ready, so I stick a butter knife in the middle and if it comes out dry it's done, I take it out of the oven and it's ready to eat. I also put some rolled oats on top before baking for decoration. Next morning you can heat it up in the microwave for 30 second and it taste like it just came out of the oven. If you are baking on a boat be careful, the boat's oven gets hotter, so don't set it too high and keep an eye on it.


Well, I hope you enjoy it, I just got one ready as we are sailing tomorrow.


It smells good!


AnechyNotes

Once upon Calabichi

Still February 16^th. The terrible pavement in the road, the holds and broken shoulders contrasts with the beautiful flora.

People fly in their cars here, but there is always a smile on their faces and they yell: Hello! Enjoy your visit in Dominica! We drive across the country, go thru the Central Forest Reserve. The streets are not getting better. The chauffeur is complaining, I understand his concern, it is very dangerous. Further up the street is full of workers and machinery fixing the highway.

It looks like that rain, Jomo told us about a while ago, made a lot of damage in that area. He said that it rained so much that he couldn't get out of home for a week. The water washed the hills, the river rocks were along the way, dirt and trees were washed off too.

You'd wondered why are we taking all this trouble to get to Calabichi. Well... we are enjoying the country and also in the mission of delivering a package for a friend, Patsy from Compass Point Marina, who has a breakfast place there. The controversial of our delivery, specially after the delightful fruit gathering adventure, is that we were bringing junk food: cheese pasta, peanut butter, instant coffee, coffee creamer and salted pork, probably the best was a letter with a few dollar bills inside.

Patsy's family were very happy to see Jim again, they opened some coconuts to offer fresh water and the tender white coconut meat. It was hard to communicate with them, but they show their best smile and when we left they wove saying come back.

The way back to Portsmouth bay was very pleasant, the pavement was nice and smooth again, the tropical forest surrounding seemed to be saying stay here, but once we were back to Salty Shores we felt, not dough, happy to be safe and sound.

AnechyNotes   

Jomo the talker

Jomo's craft shop

Still February 16^th. Going down the hill we stop at Jomo's Arts and Crafts place. He makes wind chimes out of shells, bamboo, seeds and other natural materials. He also talks a lot. I can't tell if he breaths or when, but he is very nice. We want to buy a souvenir and his pieces are all keepers.

He talks about his plants, his property, about building a house there, a very nice spot that for sure has a million dollar view. In the middle of his never ending speech he offers good deals on his items. But it's so hard to decide which one to choose. Well, we finally filter them for the way they sound. “This one sounds like the waves breaking on the shore, we like this one, we take it!” Jomo also gives a tour around his land, from where we can see the ocean, the valley and the mountains (romantically talking) kissing the clouds.

It's hard to say good-bye to Jomo the artist. I take pictures to post in facebook, and he gives me two soursops. We get his phone number and he very friendly says: “If you come back call me, I'll cook crayfish for you”.

We get in the car , not just happy for our new friends, but bragging about how good the roads are, and the nice job they did in the traffic signs system. And the view driving down the west coast t's so pretty that any description would be terrible. On the way we stop and buy grilled sweet plantain: a truly treat!

We pass Coulibistrie, Morne Raguette, Salisburry, Mèro, St. Joseph and Layou, where we turn to the left in a road with the same name, dusty for the cement plant. We actually bragged about the good pavement roads too soon.

AnechyNotes

Fallowing the farmer's road

Jim and Louie

Still February 16^th. We follow this Dominican guy; with his age draw on his eyes; as an adventure. His dynamic makes us feel like everything is going to be fine. As soon as we enter his domain; immersed in the huge shade of the trees, with a cool breeze spreading the smell of the river around, that is adding the ambiance music of the place; we felt like arriving to Eden Garden.

Louie has two workers riding in the back of his truck. This young men are from Haiti, and they look like they woke up very early to come to the farm. When the truck stops they get busy picking up oranges and grape fruits. The farmer invites us to ride on his car with him and shows with a affectionate pride his oranges trees, that he planted with his own hands. “I buy plant in nursery”. He says after Jim questions.

Did he inherited the land? No, he bought it! He doesn't reveal how much did he pay for it. But he talks about the parrots, the Dominica's national bird, that are eating and destroying his beautiful oranges. We can see hundreds of fruits on the floor with holds. “We can't eat them, because they are protected”. He protests. “I bet they taste like oranges”. Jim comments.

“Louie, and the ditches around the plants? What are those for?” “To keep water running and plant alive”.

This charming farmer says good-bye and show us the way back to the main road. “I like to show my place to tourists”, he finally explains, “everybody most know Dominican people are nice”.

We never ask his age, but we got his cellphone number. We'll be back!

AnechyNotes

Driving in Dominica

February 16^th. Today is “the get out of the boat day”. Jim has just rented a car for 24 hours. A small Suzuki, very comfy. He went to the police station and bought a driving permit and now is in the bank exchanging money. The bank seems to be busy, but... in the islands life is very slow too.

We are anchored in Portsmouth Bay, west side of Dominica and our plan is to drive to Calibichie, on the east coast. In our way there we want to stop by the medical school for lunch, they have very good food stands.

We get to med school just in time to skip the crowd of students getting out of the class to buy lunch. The food is outstanding and the fruit juices take us to freshness land.

After lunch we head south and turn left in a steep road, that is not in the map, but Jim seems to know pretty well. It is the farms hill. Along this trip we stop and talk to the farmers and buy oranges, grape fruit and bananas.

This is definitely a small world, we are driving higher up the hill when this young man, called Jerry; who buys the oranges from the farmers to take them to the port and export the to other islands; stops the car to give us some free oranges. We park the Suzuki and start talking to him and the owner of the land, Louie. As soon as I mention that I'm from Cuba Jerry says: “I spent one month living in Cotorro, Edificio 88”. This place is one of the oldest communities, located in the limits of Havana City, near to the National Botanical Garden. “How come?” I ask surprised. The answer is even more stunning. “I went to the youth festival...” “...In 1997”. I finish his phrase. That was a huge event organized in Cuba, where people from 136 countries  got together in Cuba with the motto: "for Anti-imperialist Solidarity, Peace and Friendship". I worked in that event as an voluntary organizer and I also had a participant living in my house.

In the meanwhile Louie gives Jim a very sharp knife to cut an orange, I say good bye to Jerry, who leaves smiling, some usual in the natives. We stay talking to this old man that I'm having a hard time to understand and pretty soon I know we are following his truck on this steep road to visit his biggest land. Jim looks at me, I notice some tension on his voice when he asks me if I think it is OK. “Don't you worry, I know kung-fu.” I joke. He says: “they really know how to sharp a machete”.

I'm not scared.

AnechyNotes

Recovery day

February 15^th. I call that day, recovery day. A cup of coffee in the morning to get our wheels moving, a nice ride to customs and immigration to clear in and out and a walk to a budget marine store to get fuel filters.

Once back to the boat, Jim had a nice project to finish: clean the toilet pipes, (no comments). Then we had lunch and took a power nap to wake up with a great idea: “To transfer and to filter the fuel”. The preparation was quick; he took a roll of paper towel, some hoses, funnels and rescue tape, the next step was to get on the floor and do our best holding the fuel cans, hoses and wiping everything constantly to keep the diesel from spilling on the wood. Then he put the new fuel filters, I watched and assisted, that's the best I can do.

It was a relaxing day after all, reading and doing “little projects”. At night I made tuna sushi and sushimi, my spicy tuna roll version wasn't to bad.

AnechyNotes

I might be hallucinating

February 14^th. Maybe the news of the change of route animated me, I was feeling stupendous. Of course I was back to the cockpit, my now officially bedroom, but this time I grabbed a book, because I discovered that distracting my brain from the actual situation I felt better. Talking about entertainment! Jim keeps fishing lines out and in the middle of the struggle with the motor he caught a skip-jack tuna, very fat. It was a fight to pull it in the boat and a big mess to clean, but we ate good sushimi.

Our joy didn't last too much, the engine was still fighting with the dirty fuel. And we were using our last filter. The big issue was: “It's the boat going to make it to Dominica?” It was hard to watch the island just 3 miles away... We were both exhausted, but Jim needed to rest from that crazy night. He looked at me and said: “I'm sorry, but if keep having problems we can still sail to St Lucia. We'll have the wind”. My mother always says: “If you are riding on a donkey, your only choice is hit it with the stick to make it walk”. In other words: “we've already gotten this far... a 100 more miles are not going to kill us. We'll make it!” So he started doing some work on the sails up on the deck and while I was watching him I started to talk to the boat:

“Salty Shores, from now on, your body is my body,

and I'm part of you, like you are part of myself.

If you go down on a wave, I'll go with you, and

when you come back to the surface, I'll stand by you,

'cause we are just one assemblage.

From this moment the ocean, you and me

share the same spirit, we are all harmony and waves

dancing on this Universe of peace.

And the wind is the master of our sails,

that are not sails any more, but wings,

if you fly, I'll ride on you,

'cause sea, wind, you and me, are the same thing.

Salty Shores, I'll vibrate in the same chord

of your strings, don't leave your heart give up

for one lost battle, your pack still believe in you.”

It was near the sunset when we picked up a mooring in Portsmouth, Dominica. I don't know where Jim got energies from, to jump in the water and clean the bottom of the boat. Chocolate!

AnechyNotes

February the 13th

We witnessed a moonrise between the clouds that looked like a half of an orange in a magical fruit basket. Then Jim showed me the plankton sparkling on the waves created by our vessel. Our sails were up and ready for the wind to get in the perfect direction. I was nauseous, so I laid down and tried to sleep, but instead I kept hearing voices and having creepy dreams of creatures coming from the water and talking in weird languages. I opened my eyes feeling I couldn't breath, I saw the number 17, in the wind instrument reader, but I was immerse in the strange dream of the seasickness, fighting with my mind to stay awake and with my stomach to keep in the little bit of food I could have for dinner.

Suddenly the engine made an strange noise, like lion roaring on his lost battle, hurt and humiliated on front of its group. That was appalling. But I couldn't help myself staying up there. My body was shaking, I needed to lay down. In my way to the cabin Jim said he had to change the fuel filter. Felling bad for not being able to help I crawled to the bed and passed out. In my dreams I could hear the engine sounding better and again bad, I also heard Jim's voice like faraway whisper, asking me if I was OK, or saying he had to change the filter again, or he needed to transfer the gas from the tank to the fuel cans, later on he said he filtered it while he was putting it back in the tank, I know some time of the night he said very emotional: “We are high speed sailing!”

It was a horrible night for us, making honor to a February 13^th.

I opened my eyes at 9 o' clock, Jim looked so tired and I was a mess, the acids on my stomach were killing me, I had to run up to throw out. Jim looked at me and announce me the very good news that he had changed course to Dominica. “We have a bad gas and I only have one filter left, and you are not doing good”. He sentenced.

I wanted my oat brand bread.

AnechyNotes

Anechy in seasick land

February 13^th. I woke up in the morning too late for the sunrise, Jim told me it was spectacular. Anyway, I was feeling proud of my guarding the night before, while the Captain was sleeping, even when I called him twice for a boat passing by 20 miles away.

It was a beautiful day and I was recuperated and ready for the adventure on the cockpit. My stomach was talking again, but this time it was yelling: “FOOD!” We had a very good selection in the refrigerator, but I couldn't think of anything that wouldn't made me feel sick. The savers of my day were an apple and “Wendie's Oat Brand Bread”.

I literally spent all day in the cockpit.

Another beautiful sunset announced the arrived of the night. The wind was shifting and picking up. The possibility of sailing sounded great to me, because the vibration of the engine was my Aquiles' heel. I stayed guarding from 6:30 to 9:40pm. Salty Shores was moving with an intense up and down against 4 to 6 feet waves. When Jim woke up I wanted to go back to the cabin and sleep, but a wedge pillow and a blanket in my cockpit looked like a better idea to me.

“This is a harsh way to travel, it is easier to rent a car or take a plane.” My Captain said. “But it's less exciting” I answered.

It will continue...

AnechyNotes

Encountering a real sailing in the open ocean

Still February 12^th. As soon as Salty Shores left the safety waters of the BVI, my stomach said: “Lunch, out!” after that I felt a little bit better, but that wasn't the only time, because water, air, everything had to go out. The wind was blowing from the east, northeast 6-8 knots, the ocean wasn't to rough, but it was my first time facing that constant motion. That night I stayed most of the time out on the cockpit. I enjoy the sunset a clear and bright moon and the stars.

I recalled my brother's journeys in the Caribbean sea trying to get out of Cuba in that 14 feet styrofoam and wood raft and the improvised mast and sail. I prayed that night for all the Cubans in the Caribbean sea, for those that never made it and for my brother seating on his couch watching TV, safe and sound.

AnechyNotes

Cruising time

February 12^th. Salty Shores left compass point marina at 2 o' clock in the afternoon. It's heading east now and so far the trip is calmed, maybe because we are going through the passage between St. John and the British Virgin Islands (BVI). It promises to be a two days and a half motoring to St. Lucia. Captain and crew are ready for the adventure. The crew member is very excited about the whole experience. Wait for more details.

AnecheNotes

Mom visits the USVI

Last January 25^th., my mom came down to visit with us for a week. It was fun to see her amazed by the beauty of the islands. “It 's so bad to live blind.” Was the metaphor she used to express the frustration of not been able to travel out of Cuba before 2010, when she finally arrived to the US.

For each of the seven days she stayed here, we had a very busy agenda, having dinner with friends, driving around town, sailing and snorkeling.

Day 1, we picked her up at the airport and showed her downtown, then went back to the boat and had a great dinner Jim fixed of salmon and salad.

Day 2, Pat and Peter (also friends from St. Thomas) invited us for dinner. They have a condominium on a hill above Red Hook, with a beautiful view of Tortola, Jost Van Dyke and Saint John.

Day 3, Our friend Johnny Valencia cooked for us and after dinner we went to Latitude 18^th to listen to a fiddler.

Day 4, Skip and Andrea made a little party to celebrate my mom's visit. And Andrea surprised Jim with his mom's chocolate pie recipe.

Day 5, We did a trip to Linstern Bay in St. John on Salty Shores and stayed there over night. We took the dinghy to the beach and snorkel for a while. That was a great experience for her because she had never snorkeled before.

Day 6, Well rested we decided to go to Newfound Bay across Tortola. A very quiet spot, very shallow with sea turtle swimming around. We did a great snorkeling. Salty Shores was the only boat there, what gave us a nice privacy and comfort. We were anchored in four feet water, so Jim couldn't leave the center board out. “Rock up my baby on the tree top...” but none of the members of the crew got seasick.

Day 7, It was time to start our trip back, even when mom had another night over the USVI we had to start heading back to St. Thomas. The destination was Christmas Code, in Great St. James. The wind was perfect to sail, so we had a pleasant trip. We stopped at Francis-Maho Bay, took a taxi to Cruz Bay and had lunch at Deli Dan old restaurant, in Cinnamon building, now call Deli Grotto , in Mongoose Juntion.

Once in Christmas Code, we anchored and went for a swim, and to finish the night we cook dinner for Chuck and Lindy who live on their boat there.

Last day, February the 1rst. We got back to the marina at 11:30, I gave mom a hair cut and had lunch in a Chinese Restaurant in Red Hook. Then we took her to the airport with her bags full of shells and seeds for her garden. This was a great adventure for her. We said “hasta pronto*”. She was happy to meet a group of very nice people, even when she had a hard time speaking English.

*See you soon!

AnechyNotes